Since the sixties’ sexual revolution —followed by the David Bowie era, the androgynous figure has appeared recurrently in haute couture. Platonism notion combining characteristics traditionally associated with both the feminine and the masculine, androgyny is the embodiment of gender fluidity.
The evocation of this figure with intangible gender identity went hand in hand with the sixties’ social climate, answering a need to break free from expectations of gender performativity (as Judith Butler identified it in the Nineties) and procreative potential.
More recently, designers have been exploring a new approach to gender through unisex clothing. Rad Hourani sees the latter as the democratization of the medium, which is no longer destined to a specific demographic and becomes inclusive and “free of nations, gender, age, race, limits and conditioning”.
Here are 5 unisex clothing designers!
© @_bvdu & @_____neva
Calgary-based Spencer Badu is currently studying Apparel Technology, and launched an unisex clothing line, including a collection titled “Post Gender Future”. Instagrammer @_____neva immortalized Badu’s white and black, matte and silky designs, which often incorporate zippers, pockets, and his logo’s square typography. The collection is looking to go beyond androgynous hybridity, leaning towards what Badu calls post-genre, context in which sexual identities are no longer relevant, and thus cannot account for marginalization.
© Maegan Stracy
As mentioned in various articles, the designer behind 69us chose anonymity because they intend their clothes to be “non-demographic” and “genderless”. Working largely with denim, linen, as well as oversized and drape effects, 69us proposes a small selection of pieces available in two to three sizes and textures. For this anonymous designer, staying out of the public eye also means making room for models and artists from all walks of life to promote the brand. Multimedia artist Maegan Stracy is on board!
© Frida Vega Salomonsson
Swedish retail store Weekday offers the same jean designs for all, and one of its collections, MTWTFSS/HE, is entirely unisex. On the company’s blog, an emphasis is put on the unisex, rather than androgynous approach of the line: what’s being offered is not a liminal space, nor fluid representations of gender, but rather clothing meant to fit any body type and identity. Photographer Frida Vega is not the only one with a crush on Weekday!
© @radhourani
Neutrality lies at the core of multidisciplinary artist Rad Hourani’s approach. He further explores the subversive power of neutrality —and its potential in undermining divisive social structures— through his unisex clothing line. His designs are boldly structured, and largely come in block colors. Tested and approved by rapper Cakes da killa (and Kanye West !).
© @1205studio
As some designers aforementioned, Paula Gerbase dismisses the use of the term “androgyny” in defining her creative process. She has a preference for “unisex”, which entirely leaves gender identity up to the wearer by attributing none to the clothing. With an appreciation for architecture and unusual textures, Gerbase creates pieces that are elegant and simply adorned; where sheer and opaque, shiny and woolen textures meet. Instagrammer Alexis Foreman loves the pleated effects from the newest collection.
Share your favorite unisex styles with us!
